Eastington@Paddington

from Be Inspired – A Month of French: Inspired by Damien Pignolet (page 44) by Roberta Muir andDamien Pignolet

Next time:
1 Clarify the butter before frying (clarified butter has a higher smoke point) and little to no olive oil.
2. No need to refresh the butter, use what the fish was cooked in. (If more sauce is need (probably is), take fish out and put in warming draw and add more butter and take to burnt stage.)
3. When plating, put parsley and lemon on fish, and then pour burnt butter over. (Putting the lemon juice in hot butter in the pan eliminates the acidity of the lemon. Putting the Parsley in the hot butter takes away the vibrant colour).

I note a different opinion from Roberta: Interesting variations Marcus. I disagree with using clarified butter as I want the milk solids to darken to give the ‘burnt butter’ look, aroma and flavour – therefore also need the lemon juice IN the butter to arrest the cooking at just the right point (can always add a squeeze more to the fish for brightness) … but Vive la Difference!

That comment inspired me to research this further: Escoffier: “A Guide to Modern Cooking” (1907, so not so modern now): “If the fish are very small, ordinary butter is used; if, on the other hand, they are large, the procedure demands clarified butter.” Lemon and parsley put on fish and burnt butter poured over.

Escoffier: “Ma Cusine” Dipped the fish in milk then flour. Lemon and parsley put on fish and burnt butter poured over.

“Larousse Gastronomique” 1994. (The 1981 edition was the same) Lemon put on fish and burnt butter poured over, then add parsley

Le Cordon Bleu: “Complete Cook Home Collection”: Uses clarified butter to cook the fish. Pan wiped (the others did not discard the cooking butter), butter added and cooked until golden and frothy. Remove from heat, immediately add the lemon and juice and pour over fish whilst still bubbling.